After tasting half a dozen wines that were promoted widely for their quality, at last, a wine that isn’t faulty or too old – or too pretentious. This is made from Muscat of Alexandria, which is not a very refined grape (and less elegant than the moscato bianco used in Italy for Moscato d’Asti) but very obvious in its charms. This has a distinctive grapey, bath talc character but is decidedly dry, if soft, on the palate. Rather simple but intense, balanced and enjoyable with an alcohol level of only 12%, which is a relief. Crucially, it is not trying to be something it shouldn’t (by which I mean it’s not seeking to copy any wine style from somewhere more famous).